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THE JJ SD1 User
Joined: 20 Dec 2007 Posts: 116 Location: wirral
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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Your arms sound like they have single washer and not double.In that case no need to add anouther washer if you use polys only if original spongey ones are used.Axle cups should be attatched to axle by four spot welds unless they have rotted off.In the picture the axle cups are visable as they are not welded onto axle yet.Keep going !i know it aint easy but you well get there in the end.Just dont skin your knuckles in this weather ,that aint nice.Regards JJ
ps good coat of waxoyl or even better Dynawax(Bilt Hamber Labs)when your done should help to keep it all nice. |
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ramon alban SD1 Regular

Joined: 14 Feb 2006 Posts: 478 Location: Bedford UK
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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Hello Chris,
| chris_derby wrote: | What extra washer? There's no extra washer on my axle or on the trailiong arms.
Thats because it was a dealership retrofit IF the torque tube cross member caused noise at its mounting bushes.
The geometric solution was quite innovative because the EXTRA washer pushed the brackets further aft having the effect of lowering the front end of the torque tube substantially and increasing the distance between the cross member and car body.
I cant locate the original reference at this time but I seem to remember that extra washers could also be added between the cross member its bushes to further enhance this noise reduction modification.
No axle cups either,
There were mild steel axle cups on cars when they left the factory but unless the car has been meticulously maintained with waterproofing etc, they will have rusted away.
but there seems to be 2 washers welded to the axle where the trailing arms passes through...
That would be by some creative but unwise prior owner who could not find any cups to replace the rusted ones and welded the two washers to the brackets to "centre" the trailing arm on the bracket.
The downside would be a propensity to dramatically increase wear on the trailing arm shaft if/when the bushes wear or go soft. An accident waiting to happen I'm afraid. |
The bottom line is that the cups were there to centre the bushes, and the hole in the axle bracket was large enough NOT to cause wear in the trailing arms providing the bushes and cups remained OK.
To add protection Rover had a plastic/nylon tube over the shaft but methinks it simply trapped water over the years and encouraged corrosion.
When rebuilding the back end these days - go for replacement cups and load of waxoyl protection AND the nylon tube, and do regular inspections for wear/corrosion. _________________ Ramon
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for that Ramon, have got one side sorted, but am going to have to wait till I get another trailing arm to do the other side. As for the welded on washers, I'm going to get another rear axle this year & rebuild it, so the washers will stay on for now.... _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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Lehto SD1 Regular

Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 550 Location: Finland
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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If people have bothered enough to get axle cups remade... why cant they just straight away get them pressed out of acid resistant stainless steel? Cant cost that much more. _________________ Owner of 3 Rovers and 1 MG.
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Chris P SD1 Regular

Joined: 16 Feb 2006 Posts: 689 Location: Wiltshire
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Lehto wrote: | | If people have bothered enough to get axle cups remade... why cant they just straight away get them pressed out of acid resistant stainless steel? Cant cost that much more. |
This may have been suggested to Rimmers already. Mild steel would be
easier to attach to the axle hangers though? Welding stainless to the
mild steel axel bracket would not be easy, so they'd have to be
riveted?? |
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Chris P SD1 Regular

Joined: 16 Feb 2006 Posts: 689 Location: Wiltshire
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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| chris_derby wrote: | Yes it was a new one, which is the main reason I'm so annoyed! Spent the best part of 20 quid on it only to have it fail before I've torqued it up to the correct tightness....
Gotta wait till tomorrow now so that I can shout at Rimmers lol |
How large are your biceps?? I couldn't imagine how I could tighten the
trailing arm nut so tight as to twist and snap that diameter of steel!
Especially considering the other end of the arm will flex in the fork
bush.
The Rimmers trailing arms are ex-India stock and are original Rover
items, identical to late UK-made SD1 fitments. Where did the arm
snap? |
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:41 pm Post subject: |
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It snapped on the thread _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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ramon alban SD1 Regular

Joined: 14 Feb 2006 Posts: 478 Location: Bedford UK
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Chris P wrote: | Mild steel would be
easier to attach to the axle hangers though? Welding stainless to the
mild steel axel bracket would not be easy, so they'd have to be
riveted?? |
Chris, the ones I got from Doug were SS with four holes on a pitch circle for attaching by rivets. I'd had them in the workshop for 5 years before fitting them to the TP in 2006.
However what I did was drill out the holes a bit more and countersink them with a regular csk bit, then plug welded them into place, the four plugs were then ground off flat with the inner surface of the cup. One could see that the weld integrity was good so they are not going anywhere whilst under compression considering how much sheer force it would take to break those four big plug welds in each cup.
I believe the original cups were spot welded and mine had evidence of only four small spots so they were probable less secure than my SS ones.
As I recall this was one of Dougs recommendations I got by Email from him. I put non-poly bushes back in to soften up the rear suspension a tad as a general migration away from the hard poly's that I fitted in the mid '90s (and which were directly responsible for all the fillings falling out of my tee(hee)th! )
Problem was, that the manufacturer for Rimmers had not shaped the brand new soft bushes so they did not sit down in the cup properly until I pared off the edge of the cheese-like shape with a sharp knife to allow then to seat properly. _________________ Ramon
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Lehto SD1 Regular

Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 550 Location: Finland
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:51 pm Post subject: |
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Stainless welds just fine to mild steel... no problem in that. Infact... people who "stick" weld prefer to use always stainless steel rods because their the best to weld and make a strong seam. _________________ Owner of 3 Rovers and 1 MG.
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ramon alban SD1 Regular

Joined: 14 Feb 2006 Posts: 478 Location: Bedford UK
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:51 pm Post subject: |
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Regarding the snapped trailing arm link, that would surely take some force, so if they were part of the suppliers recent acqusition its possible there was a latent manufacturing defect.
It would certainly be worth while mentioning to them that if it had NOT snapped under installation there could have been a safety issue to contend with - might get one a "without predudice" free replacement or at the very least a big discount.
Mind you, home mechanics on that sort of thing probably would frighten insurance companies off underwriting us at all. - what what? _________________ Ramon
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Ramon, I was going to call Rimmers tomorrow morning & speak to them. I would imagine it would take a whole lot of force to snap the thread on a trailing arm, but it didn't takethat much force to snap the one I was installing, so I can only assume there was a defect in the thread... _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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Chris P SD1 Regular

Joined: 16 Feb 2006 Posts: 689 Location: Wiltshire
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Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:11 am Post subject: |
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It's certainly a bit concerning having a trailing arm snap during
installation - they should not do this! Rimmers are pretty helpful
if you speak to the right person, and I'd imagine they'd be
interested in examining the broken arm to see if there are others
that may snap. You've got me worried now - I've got ex-India
trailing arms on my Vitesse
| ramon alban wrote: |
Chris, the ones I got from Doug were SS with four holes on a pitch circle for attaching by rivets. I'd had them in the workshop for 5 years before fitting them to the TP in 2006.
However what I did was drill out the holes a bit more and countersink them with a regular csk bit, then plug welded them into place, the four plugs were then ground off flat with the inner surface of the cup. One could see that the weld integrity was good so they are not going anywhere whilst under compression considering how much sheer force it would take to break those four big plug welds in each cup.
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This sounds the way to go - SS cups and plug welded to the axle
brackets. Hopefully this information is getting passed on to Rimmer's
by Doug and we will get SS axle cups.
| ramon alban wrote: |
I believe the original cups were spot welded and mine had evidence of only four small spots so they were probable less secure than my SS ones.
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I can see no evidence whatsoever there were ever cups on my Vitesse's
axle. But I can well imagine complete disintegration of the cups over
20 years, along with surface rusting of the axle bracket would hide signs
of the cups  |
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Lehto SD1 Regular

Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 550 Location: Finland
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kiwi_sd1 SD1 User
Joined: 23 Oct 2007 Posts: 107 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:46 am Post subject: |
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sorry to jump in here and show my ignorance , but where are these axle cups being talked about? which part number are they from here
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Lehto SD1 Regular

Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 550 Location: Finland
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Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:08 am Post subject: |
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| kiwi_sd1 wrote: | sorry to jump in here and show my ignorance , but where are these axle cups being talked about? which part number are they from here
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thanks |
Between the two bushes at the end of trailing arm which attaches to the axle. No part number. _________________ Owner of 3 Rovers and 1 MG.
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