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Power window woes

 
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Halkyardo
SD1 User


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 34
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 11:24 am    Post subject: Power window woes Reply with quote

My recently-purchased 1984 3500SE has developed a couple of interesting (and infuriating) problems with the power windows. A month or so ago, the passenger side window went down and refused to go up for several hours - the relays clicked and everything, and occasionally it would make a forlorn squeal when I pushed the button, but there was definitely no movement. It started working again of its own accord, and I just left it closed.

Now, the passenger's side window doesn't work at all, up or down, and recently, the driver's window has been doing something similar - it goes down much faster than normal, with the motor making a whining noise, and then won't go back up until I open the door and slam it really really hard. In both cases, the relays make the right sounds, and the right voltages are getting to the right places, but nothing seems to happen. Anybody else had this problem, or have any ideas where to start looking?

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ramon alban
SD1 Regular


Joined: 14 Feb 2006
Posts: 478
Location: Bedford UK

PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello ???

Several things to review.

Window glasses very stiff in their channels - wd40 or ptfe spray to lubricate all channels.

Battery voltage too low when the engine is not running but windows operate ok when engine is running - replace battery - OR

Corroded electrical connections on cables to and from the window motors - open all connectors, clean with switch cleaner and lubricate connecrors with vaseline before closing.

Window mechanism quadrants and drive gears full of crud/grime - clean and relube with quality grease.

Motors tired and/or in need of internal lube - check connections to motor and lube shafts and internal if poss.

Motor internal switch contacts for overload protection damaged causing motor to burn out - replace moter. can only be done by drilling out rivets and fixing replacement motor with half height nuts/bolts.

Top and bottom support channels full of crud/grime - Clean and regrease.

Relays clicking but contacts corroded or burned out - replace relays by substitution until faulty relay(s) found.

There might be other reasons but I cant recall them at this time.

For lots of help on wiring and connector maintenance go here:

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paulcnb
SD1 User


Joined: 21 Feb 2008
Posts: 32

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a similar problem with my '85 VDP. Both rear windows sometimes refuse to close after opening. Strangely, it seems to rectify itself. If I try them again after a few hours they both work quite normally.
Maybe a sticking or stuffed relay?
I've never experienced any problems with the front windows.
Guess I will have to go through Ramon's checklist in an effort to track down the problem.
Paul.
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Halkyardo
SD1 User


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 34
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks heaps for those pointers - you've got some fantastic information up on your site! I'm a bit short on time at the moment, but I'll have to give them a go once I can put the time aside to pull the doors apart. I've still got a sunroof to let air in Razz

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ramon alban
SD1 Regular


Joined: 14 Feb 2006
Posts: 478
Location: Bedford UK

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Paul,


paulcnb wrote:
Strangely, it seems to rectify itself. If I try them again after a few hours they both work quite normally.

Almost certainly because the battery has had a chance to recover - or the battery is simply not up to the job. Shocked

Look at it this way - batteries only last 3 - 5 years at best - classic cars less because they are regularly abused.

that means if we all buy a battery every three years, then one third of all SD1 owners have to replace their battery each year - usually after a winter layup - are you one of those 33%?


Maybe a sticking or stuffed relay?

Probably not. in your case.

I've never experienced any problems with the front windows.

More cable length and connectors to the rear windows = more opportunity for voltage drop in the wiring and connectors. Check and clean as recommended.

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Punx0r
SD1 Regular


Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 252

PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this a while ago - one of the rear windows went down but refused to come back up. The problem was a stuck brush in the motor - one sharp tap with a hammer to the brush end of the motor got it working again. Unfortunately I'd already removed the whole regulator from the door...

All my windows are a little dodgy: slow operation and sometimes takes a few clicks of the switch to get them into life. I suspect dirty switches combined with poor power supply (most of the cabin electrics seems to suffer from this...).
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Halkyardo
SD1 User


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 34
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right. Well I've managed to make the driver's side window work - the 'up' relay was getting marginal. I've swapped them over for the moment, so it won't always go down, but at least it'll go up when I need it to. The passenger's side is a trickier problem. Electrically, its fine - relays are okay, voltages are okay and nothing happens even when I connect the motor directly to 12 volts. It appears to be something physically jammed in the mechanism. But I have a question. How on EARTH do I get to any bit of it? I've pulled the door card and protective plastic off, but I've got no idea where to go from there - there are just a couple of small holes - what's the best way to get the regulator mechanism out?

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ramon alban
SD1 Regular


Joined: 14 Feb 2006
Posts: 478
Location: Bedford UK

PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Halkyardo wrote:
what's the best way to get the regulator mechanism out?


Use a digital camera to record the position of parts removed.

Remove the chrome and rubber rain guard strip.

Start with the widow closed, taped in the up position and jam it there with some small wedges etc.

Disconnect the battery.

Remove the door inner not forgetting the hidden screw near the door handle lever.

Disconnect all connectors.

Disconnect the door lock lever operating arm from the lever end and let it drop down inside the door.

Remove the speaker (if fitted) and remove the relay bracket after
disconnecting the plugs.

Remove the bolts holding the motor and scissor mechanism and gently
remove it from the runners on the glass which remains jammed in the up position and a similar runner lower down.

With the scissor mechanism free, negotiate the end nearest the door hinge as high as possible into the top front corner of the door cavity.

The lower end will now just exit from the diagonally opposite corner of the inner skin aperture.

If it does not then removing the flat door cross member that secures the door handle lever will allow more room to negotiate a clearance.

The motors are sealed but flooding with wd40 or ptfe lube or switch cleaner may help free the motor brushes or internal bits and pieces.

If upon application of voltage to the terminals it can be made to work again all will probably be ok. watch your fingers in the scissor mechanism.



If the motor is duff it can be removed by drilling out the rivets and replacing using low profile bolts and half nuts.

Upon reassembly make sure all gears and wheels and channels are well lubed and all connectors and switches are cleaned - ditto..

Also I forgot to mention before - the window up/down switches corrode and should be disassembled, cleaned and revitalised with vaseline.

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kiwi_sd1
SD1 User


Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 107
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome, looks like I'll be printing off a few pages myself Smile

by the way, who's hand is that Shocked
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paulcnb
SD1 User


Joined: 21 Feb 2008
Posts: 32

PostPosted: Thu May 08, 2008 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your reply Ramon. Your comments make good sense and my battery is getting a bit long in the tooth. So I will bite the bullet and buy a new one. Then (hopefully) my on-again/off-again problem will no longer occur.
Regards,
Paul.
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Lehto
SD1 Regular


Joined: 12 Aug 2006
Posts: 550
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem. Its the window motor being annoying. Only way was to take the damn mechanism apart and clean everything and grease up. After that it moved a lot better... but still not with such rage as the front windows do.

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