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Chris P SD1 Regular

Joined: 16 Feb 2006 Posts: 689 Location: Wiltshire
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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:08 am Post subject: Rear trailing arm bushes |
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I'm changing all the suspension bushes on my Vitesse for the upgraded poly
ones where available, or changing the rubber ones as a precaution. The rear
suspension, at least, is as it left the factory in 1986.
There is some confusion as to the bush/washer arrangement where the rear
trailing arm connects to the rear axle. Originally there was a bush either side
of the axle hanger, the trailing arm itself had a large washer welded to it and
the whole lot held in place with a matching large washer and nut.
The Haynes manual chapter 13 supplement describes an additional washer being
fitted to the trailing link axle mounting. Item 11 page 251 and diagram 13.93.
The additional washer is shown between the trailing link welded-on washer and
the forward bush.
On examining my car, the additional washer was present but in a different location.
It was forward of the rear bush, adjacent to the axle hanger. Does anyone know
of the correct set-up? The Rover workshop manual does not describe the additional
washer.
As I'm fitting polybushes, I'm not even sure the additional washer is worth fitting - but
is included in the polybush kit obtained from Rimmers. Nor is it shown on the Rimmers
website image of the suspension:
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Thanks. |
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:17 am Post subject: |
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I'm fitting poly bushes to the trailing arms too. New trailing arms from Rimmers by the way, didn't like the look of the rot on the existing arms. Now, the poly bushes I have are flat on one side & a rounded edge on the other, which way round do I fit them to the car? _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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Lehto SD1 Regular

Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 550 Location: Finland
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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I fit the round sides to touch the axle. I dont think it makes any difference in which way they are fitted in terms of performance but in longevity it might make some difference? _________________ Owner of 3 Rovers and 1 MG.
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Under 4 litre engines are starter motors!! |
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah that's what I was thinking. Will see if I can get the old arms off first though!! _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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Lehto SD1 Regular

Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 550 Location: Finland
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Its a pain in the ass to remove the left one when fueltank is in place. You already figured out the arm has to come out with the fork assembly before the arm and fork can be separated? _________________ Owner of 3 Rovers and 1 MG.
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Under 4 litre engines are starter motors!! |
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, this isn't the first time Ive changed bushes. Is a shame that the bolt holding the arm to the fork is the wrong way round, otherwise it would be easy to remove the fork! The main problem I'm having right now is trying to release the nut on the otherend of the trailing arm! The Driver's side one is rusted solid, so I've gotta get my grinder out & have at it! _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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Lehto SD1 Regular

Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 550 Location: Finland
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Kassi SD1 User
Joined: 17 Feb 2007 Posts: 19
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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I downloaded some loose pages of a workschop manual and there can be read about the tailing link bushes "flat face towards the axle tube brackets".
I did this last year with good result. It sems to be stiffer than the other way round.
regards
Christof |
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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Not a happy camper! Almost finished the driver's side & the f**king thread on the trailing arm snapped! Hadn't even got it to the right torque either.....
That's 20 quid wasted.... _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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Chris P SD1 Regular

Joined: 16 Feb 2006 Posts: 689 Location: Wiltshire
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Kassi wrote: | I downloaded some loose pages of a workschop manual and there can be read about the tailing link bushes "flat face towards the axle tube brackets".
I did this last year with good result. It sems to be stiffer than the other way round.
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This makes sense as the flat of the bush should sit in the axle cups on
the axle brackets. These cups seem to be non existent on many
axles - either through rust or were never there in the first place.
Rimmers are said to be making some new ones which can be welded
or riveted to the brackets.
| chris_derby wrote: | Not a happy camper! Almost finished the driver's side & the f**king thread on the trailing arm snapped! Hadn't even got it to the right torque either.....
That's 20 quid wasted.... |
Crikey, how strong are you? It was a new one, right? |
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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Yes it was a new one, which is the main reason I'm so annoyed! Spent the best part of 20 quid on it only to have it fail before I've torqued it up to the correct tightness....
Gotta wait till tomorrow now so that I can shout at Rimmers lol _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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THE JJ SD1 User
Joined: 20 Dec 2007 Posts: 117 Location: wirral
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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I too stripped both threads on my arm, even using heat and wd trick.At least there down to less than 20 quid.Try this link for some useful pics on dougs sd1 site.
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not talking about undoing the nut, Am talking about putting a new arm on.
Have fitted the second arm now, but have only torqued it up to about 30NM or so, don't want to risk that one snapping too! Hopefully it wont matter so much that it's not torqued up to the correct setting, I'm using poly bushes & they seem to be quite compressed, plus the thread is showing out of the nyloc nut too, so no danger of the nut coming off! _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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THE JJ SD1 User
Joined: 20 Dec 2007 Posts: 117 Location: wirral
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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Have you fitted the extra washer,as this would make tightenening up very differcult.The extra washer on the arms were to move the axle back 4mm to stop the torque tube mounting member sqeeking.It was a rover retrofit and is applicable to the nam 5234 bush.If you have an arm with one washer and polys i have been told that this is enough.CRC 95 is a large washer with a small hole M10 with locks up at the end of the thread to a flat face.In this pic two options are possible ,poly or spongey bush.It also shows relevant washers and the nylon sleeve,axle cups not welded on yet
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chris_derby SD1 Regular

Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 293 Location: Centre of the universe
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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What extra washer? There's no extra washer on my axle or on the trailiong arms. No axle cups either, but there seems to be 2 washers welded to the axle where the trailing arms passes through...
Is a right ball ache getting it on too _________________ Auto Vitesse, gonna be a beast! |
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