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Halkyardo SD1 User

Joined: 05 May 2008 Posts: 33 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 11:24 am Post subject: Power window woes |
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My recently-purchased 1984 3500SE has developed a couple of interesting (and infuriating) problems with the power windows. A month or so ago, the passenger side window went down and refused to go up for several hours - the relays clicked and everything, and occasionally it would make a forlorn squeal when I pushed the button, but there was definitely no movement. It started working again of its own accord, and I just left it closed.
Now, the passenger's side window doesn't work at all, up or down, and recently, the driver's window has been doing something similar - it goes down much faster than normal, with the motor making a whining noise, and then won't go back up until I open the door and slam it really really hard. In both cases, the relays make the right sounds, and the right voltages are getting to the right places, but nothing seems to happen. Anybody else had this problem, or have any ideas where to start looking? _________________ My SD1:
Grey-green 1984 3500SE
New Zealand-assembled
Registration: GR8DOG |
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ramon alban SD1 Regular

Joined: 14 Feb 2006 Posts: 448 Location: Bedford UK
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Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 2:00 pm Post subject: |
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Hello ???
Several things to review.
Window glasses very stiff in their channels - wd40 or ptfe spray to lubricate all channels.
Battery voltage too low when the engine is not running but windows operate ok when engine is running - replace battery - OR
Corroded electrical connections on cables to and from the window motors - open all connectors, clean with switch cleaner and lubricate connecrors with vaseline before closing.
Window mechanism quadrants and drive gears full of crud/grime - clean and relube with quality grease.
Motors tired and/or in need of internal lube - check connections to motor and lube shafts and internal if poss.
Motor internal switch contacts for overload protection damaged causing motor to burn out - replace moter. can only be done by drilling out rivets and fixing replacement motor with half height nuts/bolts.
Top and bottom support channels full of crud/grime - Clean and regrease.
Relays clicking but contacts corroded or burned out - replace relays by substitution until faulty relay(s) found.
There might be other reasons but I cant recall them at this time.
For lots of help on wiring and connector maintenance go here:
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_________________ Ramon
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paulcnb SD1 User
Joined: 21 Feb 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue May 06, 2008 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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I have a similar problem with my '85 VDP. Both rear windows sometimes refuse to close after opening. Strangely, it seems to rectify itself. If I try them again after a few hours they both work quite normally.
Maybe a sticking or stuffed relay?
I've never experienced any problems with the front windows.
Guess I will have to go through Ramon's checklist in an effort to track down the problem.
Paul. |
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Halkyardo SD1 User

Joined: 05 May 2008 Posts: 33 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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ramon alban SD1 Regular

Joined: 14 Feb 2006 Posts: 448 Location: Bedford UK
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Punx0r SD1 Regular
Joined: 05 Nov 2006 Posts: 231
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 1:17 am Post subject: |
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I had this a while ago - one of the rear windows went down but refused to come back up. The problem was a stuck brush in the motor - one sharp tap with a hammer to the brush end of the motor got it working again. Unfortunately I'd already removed the whole regulator from the door...
All my windows are a little dodgy: slow operation and sometimes takes a few clicks of the switch to get them into life. I suspect dirty switches combined with poor power supply (most of the cabin electrics seems to suffer from this...). |
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Halkyardo SD1 User

Joined: 05 May 2008 Posts: 33 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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Right. Well I've managed to make the driver's side window work - the 'up' relay was getting marginal. I've swapped them over for the moment, so it won't always go down, but at least it'll go up when I need it to. The passenger's side is a trickier problem. Electrically, its fine - relays are okay, voltages are okay and nothing happens even when I connect the motor directly to 12 volts. It appears to be something physically jammed in the mechanism. But I have a question. How on EARTH do I get to any bit of it? I've pulled the door card and protective plastic off, but I've got no idea where to go from there - there are just a couple of small holes - what's the best way to get the regulator mechanism out? _________________ My SD1:
Grey-green 1984 3500SE
New Zealand-assembled
Registration: GR8DOG |
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ramon alban SD1 Regular

Joined: 14 Feb 2006 Posts: 448 Location: Bedford UK
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Halkyardo wrote: | | what's the best way to get the regulator mechanism out? |
Use a digital camera to record the position of parts removed.
Remove the chrome and rubber rain guard strip.
Start with the widow closed, taped in the up position and jam it there with some small wedges etc.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the door inner not forgetting the hidden screw near the door handle lever.
Disconnect all connectors.
Disconnect the door lock lever operating arm from the lever end and let it drop down inside the door.
Remove the speaker (if fitted) and remove the relay bracket after
disconnecting the plugs.
Remove the bolts holding the motor and scissor mechanism and gently
remove it from the runners on the glass which remains jammed in the up position and a similar runner lower down.
With the scissor mechanism free, negotiate the end nearest the door hinge as high as possible into the top front corner of the door cavity.
The lower end will now just exit from the diagonally opposite corner of the inner skin aperture.
If it does not then removing the flat door cross member that secures the door handle lever will allow more room to negotiate a clearance.
The motors are sealed but flooding with wd40 or ptfe lube or switch cleaner may help free the motor brushes or internal bits and pieces.
If upon application of voltage to the terminals it can be made to work again all will probably be ok. watch your fingers in the scissor mechanism.
If the motor is duff it can be removed by drilling out the rivets and replacing using low profile bolts and half nuts.
Upon reassembly make sure all gears and wheels and channels are well lubed and all connectors and switches are cleaned - ditto..
Also I forgot to mention before - the window up/down switches corrode and should be disassembled, cleaned and revitalised with vaseline. _________________ Ramon
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kiwi_sd1 SD1 User
Joined: 23 Oct 2007 Posts: 105 Location: New Zealand
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paulcnb SD1 User
Joined: 21 Feb 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 10:52 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for your reply Ramon. Your comments make good sense and my battery is getting a bit long in the tooth. So I will bite the bullet and buy a new one. Then (hopefully) my on-again/off-again problem will no longer occur.
Regards,
Paul. |
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Lehto SD1 Regular

Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 535 Location: Finland
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Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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I had a similar problem. Its the window motor being annoying. Only way was to take the damn mechanism apart and clean everything and grease up. After that it moved a lot better... but still not with such rage as the front windows do. _________________ Owner of 3 Rovers and 1 MG.
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Password: allthings_sd1
Under 4 litre engines are starter motors!! |
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